Skip to main content
Techniques

Jump ring fundamentals: gauge, mm, and gold standard

Everything you need to size, source, and weld jump rings cleanly the first time — including the open-vs-closed decision.

7 min read

Gauge and mm — read the spec sheet

A jump ring has two key numbers: the gauge (thickness of the wire) and the mm (the inside or outside diameter). For permanent jewelry, the most common pairings are 22ga × 2.5mm, 20ga × 3mm, and 18ga × 3.5mm. Thinner gauges weld faster but stress more under wear; thicker gauges are stronger but need more heat or a higher pulse setting.

Open vs closed

For PJ, you almost always work with open jump rings — they're what allow you to slide a charm or close the chain in the first place. Closed rings are pre-soldered and used as anchor points or charm hangers.

A clean weld in three steps

  • Open the ring with a side-twist motion — never pull the ends apart, that distorts the round shape.
  • Hook the chain ends so the ring closes in the same plane the ends sit in. A twisted ring will never weld flush.
  • Position the seam at the top before pulsing — gravity helps the metal pool symmetrically.